Wiltshire College & University Centre
Adult Education — Darkroom Course
Practical Printing &
The Zone System
Three printing skills tonight:
Contact Sheets, Test Strips, First Print.
Plus the theory behind it:
Middle grey, the Zone System.
[ Hero darkroom image ]
Today's Mission
Contact Sheet
A proof of all negatives, to evaluate and select your best shots.
Test Strip
Determine the correct exposure time for your chosen negative.
First Print
Produce your first finished photograph on photographic paper.
Each task builds on the previous one. Master these three and you'll print with confidence.
Before we start: questions? Anyone want to order film or paper?
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The Stock Room — Price List
Materials Available
Ilford Photographic Paper
Kentmere 400 Film
Payment & Collection
Payment must be made via the College Shop.
Collect your materials from Paul Zaglen or directly from the tutor during class.
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The Contact Sheet — Your Negative Map
A contact sheet is a proof print: the entire strip of negatives placed directly on paper and exposed.
Why Contact Sheets Matter
- Evaluate all negatives at once.
- Compare similar shots side-by-side.
- Identify exposure and composition issues.
- Organise negatives systematically.
- Save time and materials on test prints.
[ Real B&W contact sheet image ]
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Test Strip for a Single Negative
Your test subject. Clean with antistatic brush.
Contact frame on baseboard, even illumination, lens at f/5.6.
Paper test strip in the contact frame, single negative on top, emulsion down.
Cover most of the paper with card; expose 2s; shift; expose 2s more; repeat (2, 4, 6, 8, 10s).
Develop, stop, fix. Find the band with best detail and contrast. Note the time.
Banded test strip example
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Making the Full Contact Sheet
Clean each strip with an antistatic brush; arrange them in order.
Use the exact same settings as your test strip (height, aperture).
Full sheet of paper on baseboard, all negatives on top (emulsion down), heavy glass over.
Expose for the optimal time found on your test strip (e.g., 6 seconds).
Develop, stop, fix. Rinse thoroughly, then dry.
Review under good light. Mark the best frames for enlargement.
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The Test Strip — Finding Your Exposure
Without Test Strips
- Guess at exposure time.
- Waste expensive paper on failed prints.
- Inconsistent results.
- Trial and error frustration.
With Test Strips
- Test multiple exposures on one small strip.
- Identify the perfect exposure time.
- Save paper and chemicals.
- Predictable results, every print.
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Reading Your Test Strip — The Sweet Spot
Too Dark
Underexposed
Image is too dark overall, with no detail visible in the shadows.
Action: Increase exposure time for the full print.
Just Right
Perfect Exposure
Full tonal range achieved, with clear detail in both shadows and highlights.
Action: Use this exact exposure time.
Too Light
Overexposed
Image appears washed out, with blocked or blown-out highlights.
Action: Decrease exposure time for the full print.
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The First Print — Complete Workflow
Place in the carrier; focus on the easel to your desired size.
Set to your test strip's optimal exposure time.
Emulsion side up, safelight on.
Safelight off, expose for the predetermined time.
Paper into developer 1–2 minutes until the image appears.
Stop bath 30s, fixer 5–10 minutes.
Running water 1+ minutes, hang or rack to dry.
[ Side-photograph of enlarger with paper on the easel, image projected ]
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Common First-Print Problems
Print too dark
Underexposed negative or overexposed print, resulting in blocked shadows.
Solution
Decrease exposure time by 2–3 seconds; check aperture is open enough.
Print too light
Overexposed negative or underexposed print, resulting in washed out, blocked highlights.
Solution
Increase exposure time by 2–3 seconds; check safelight isn't too bright.
Image out of focus
Blurry print lacking sharp edges and fine detail.
Solution
Refocus the enlarger carefully; check that the negative carrier is seated flat.
Dust spots / marks
Distinct black or white spots appearing on the final print from dust or debris.
Solution
Use an antistatic brush on the negative; use lens paper on the enlarger lens.
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Camera Theme — Colour to Tone in B&W
B&W film has no idea what colour is. Every colour renders as some shade of grey.
Without a filter, two very different colours can render as the exact same grey, causing subjects to blend into their backgrounds.
Approximate Tonal Renderings
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Camera Theme — Contrast Filters on the Lens
The Core Principle: A coloured filter on the lens darkens its complementary colour and lightens its own colour in the final print.
Yellow
(Y2 / 8)
- Mild contrast boost.
- Slightly darkens blue sky, separates clouds.
- Good general-purpose landscape filter.
Orange
(O / 21)
- Stronger sky darkening.
- Creates more cloud drama.
- Hides skin blemishes in portraits.
Red
(R / 25)
- Very dark sky, near-black.
- Strong cloud separation.
- Foliage darkens; great for graphic landscapes.
Green
(G / 11)
- Lightens foliage.
- Separates green tones effectively.
- Highly useful in dense woodland scenes.
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Camera Theme — Landscape Composition
Foreground / Middle / Background
Landscapes work in three planes.
Anchor the foreground; lead through the middle; reveal in the background.
Light Direction
- Sidelight (early/late) gives texture.
- Backlight gives drama.
- Front light flattens. Avoid noon.
Patience
The best landscapes come from returning to the same spot in different light.
Plan to revisit your locations.
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Exposure Triangle Recap
Aperture
The size of the lens opening.
Effect: Depth of Field
Shutter Speed
The duration the shutter remains open.
Effect: Motion Blur or Freeze
ISO
The film's sensitivity to light.
Effect: Grain Structure
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Metering on Classic 35mm SLRs
Centre-Weighted TTL
Emphasises the centre of the frame. Best for general photography, portraits, and everyday scenes.
Match-Needle / Manual
Use the in-viewfinder needle or LEDs to match the recommended exposure by adjusting aperture or shutter speed.
AE / Auto Exposure
The camera helps set exposure automatically (often shutter-priority, as seen on the Canon AE-1).
Centre-Weighted Viewfinder
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The Zone System — Core Concept
"The negative is the score, and the print is the performance."
— Ansel Adams
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The Zone Scale — 0 to X
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The Golden Rule
"Expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights."
The Why
Film records shadow detail based entirely on exposure.
If you underexpose, the shadows are completely blank (Zone 0). No amount of development time can bring back detail that was never recorded.
The How (Practical Application)
- →Find the darkest area where you still want detail (Zone III).
- →Meter that specific area. The meter will suggest settings to make it Zone V (Middle Grey).
- →To place it correctly in Zone III, close down 2 stops (e.g., change from f/5.6 to f/11).
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Understanding Middle Grey
The Core Problem: Your camera's light meter is stupid.
It assumes that whatever you point it at is Middle Grey (18% reflectance, Zone V).
It will always give you an exposure recommendation designed to turn that specific subject into middle grey.
Point it at pure white snow?
It underexposures to make it grey.
Point it at a grey card?
It exposes perfectly.
Point it at a black dog?
It overexposes to make it grey.
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Exposure Compensation
Because the meter assumes 18% grey, you must override it in extreme lighting conditions to get the correct exposure.
Snow / Beach
Very bright scenes. The meter wants to darken the bright white snow to middle grey, resulting in underexposure.
Backlit Subject
Bright background, dark subject. The meter reads the bright background and underexposes your main subject.
Night / Dark Scenes
Very dark scenes. The meter wants to lighten the black night to middle grey, making the image muddy and grainy.
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Part 2 Summary
18% Grey Bias
Camera meters are "dumb." They assume the entire world averages out to middle grey (Zone V).
The Zone System
A framework of 11 zones (0 to X) used to pre-visualise and control tones from pure black to pure white.
The Golden Rule
Expose for the shadows (place them in Zone III), and develop for the highlights.
Exposure Compensation
You must override the meter for tricky lighting: add exposure for snow/backlight, reduce for night scenes.
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Practical Project — Zone System Landscape
The Assignment
Shoot a high-contrast landscape (e.g., a bright sky with a dark foreground).
Use a contrast filter (Yellow, Orange, or Red) if you have one available.
Remember to apply the filter factor to your exposure if your camera does not meter through the lens!
Bring the undeveloped roll to Week 9
The Metering Exercise
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Resources & Week 9 Preview
Recommended Reading
"The Negative"
Ansel Adams
Classic guide to the Zone System.
"Way Beyond Monochrome"
Ralph W. Lambrecht
Technical reference for B&W processes.
Ilford Photo Website
Online Resource
Data sheets for film and paper.
Coming Up in Week 9
Multigrade Printing
Contrast filters to control print tones.
Split-Grade Printing
Dodging and burning with graded filters.
Camera Theme: Portraits
Lighting, focal length, and interaction tips.
Wiltshire College | Week 8 | 23